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    1024 KB Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:34 No.1538090  
    Hello Sirs, earlier today I posted a thread where I mentioned I was making a counterfeit resin Sisters of Battle army. After much soul searching I have decided to share my hard earned secrets of casting with my fellow fa/tg/uys.

    The following is tutorial on how, after an investments of about $50, you can make yourself an unlimited supply of essentially free miniatures.

    Pic is of a resin Tyranid army I made a year ago.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:36 No.1538096
    Go on then.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:37 No.1538106
    I've thought about doing the same with Grey Knights. thx for the tutorial, I'll get making some Bolter Bitches now.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:39 No.1538123
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    The first step is to choose a usable miniature. This is a very tricky process with many intricacies. I won't get into them all but the most important one is that the miniature cannot have a hole going straight through it. Aside from that use what you want. If it has a hole, fill it with green stuff.

    You now need to choose a side of the miniature, something that will not be seen preferably and build a lip onto it. Attach this lip to a stick or piece of sprue.

    Pic is of a necron I am making for a Nightbringer themed army, shit will be cash I can assure you.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:41 No.1538138
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    The next step is to make a mold. I have tried everything and the thing I found which actually works is Burma Rubber.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:44 No.1538151
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    What you do next is dip the miniature into the rubber then let any extra solution drip off.

    Bubble will form over any holes in the miniature. You can see one of the bubble on the left side of the left foot of the necron in the picture. Pop that motherfucker. Bubbles will be the bane of this technique should you choose to use it. Learn to recognize this enemy and purge it with zeal.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:49 No.1538180
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:50 No.1538190
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    Now one layer of rubber is not a enough, so when the first layer becomes clear, dip it again. When you have about 4-5 layers, let the last one dry, make a cut along the edge of lip to release the blank.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:52 No.1538208
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    Now that you have a mold, you must fill the mold. I use two part EasyCast resin. The most important thing to consider if the viscosity of the resin, you want it low.

    Measure the resin into equal part samples, I use starstedt graduated plastic tubes for this, but anything will work.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:55 No.1538229
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    Now, empty both resin tubes into a ziploc bag. Once in the bag you can knead the resin to mix it. Move it around but be gentle, thrashing it will make bubbles and bubbles are bad.

    Poke a hole in a corner of the bag once the resin is mixed and pore the resin into the molds.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:56 No.1538236
    I use Silicon rubber that vulcanizing at room temp. Then I just Fill the mold with resin, great detail and not to time consuming.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:58 No.1538243
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    There will probably be bubbles in the resin within the mold at this point. Hold the mold up to a light source. If you didn't layer the rubber on too thick you should be able to see any bubbles inside the mold. You can see a few bubbles on the lip of this upside-down sister of battle. Pinch the mold near the bubbles to try to dislodge them. If you are a fucking billionaire and have a vibrating table, use it now.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:58 No.1538244
    Archive this shit
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)19:59 No.1538250
    If you look carefully that is exactly what I am describing, I just thought I would give some detail to help out beginners.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:00 No.1538257
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    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:02 No.1538264
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    Find a nice place to let the molds harden. If they fall over anything the resin touches will be ruined forever. I find an egg carton is perfect for this. I would be wary of the foam ones though, resin may dissolve it. I have also made apparati out of lego for larger molds in the past. The lego was rendered useless afterwards.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:02 No.1538268
    fapping furiously to this thread MOAR!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:05 No.1538282
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    Wait 24 hours for the resin to harden, longer if you didn't do a good job of mixing (tisk tisk), then just peel the rubber off the resin. Hopefully you can do this without ruining the rubber, for if you can, you can send the mold back for another round of filling!

    Picture is of some sisters I molded up. I also have some of my necrons in there, they need finishing though.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:07 No.1538286
    some one screen cap this.

    I'm too lazy to do it my self.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:08 No.1538293
    >>the lego was renderded useless afterwards
    its death was not in vain
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:08 No.1538294
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    And there you have it. In no time at all you will have a shitload of miniatures and GW will be standing with it's pockets inside out while tragic music plays.

    I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:08 No.1538298
    where do you buy burma rubber?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:08 No.1538299
    Can we see some more results, preferably unpainted.

    PLEASE. also where did you get the burma rubber?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:09 No.1538301
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:10 No.1538306
    do you cut the excess resin bits off?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:11 No.1538309
    Cancer killing the hobby, etc.

    Still, its time for some euthanasia!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:15 No.1538335
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    OP here
    Curry's Art Supply

    Enjoy the pic.

    Yes, I am glad you mentioned that. When you are finished you have to use wire cutters to remove the lip you added earlier.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:16 No.1538339
    Games workshop is the cancer killing itself.
    It's time for a showdown!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:18 No.1538355
    GW is the cancer killing the hobby, jacking up prices each year is causing LESS people to buy and get into the hobby not making them more profit.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:19 No.1538367
    OP is a god, this shit done got archived.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:20 No.1538375
    Can you post how to do it with sprues?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:21 No.1538377
    This basically means you can field the massive grot squads you always wanted to.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:21 No.1538379
    cannae find burma rubber on currys...
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:21 No.1538380
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    OP is NOT muckin about
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:21 No.1538385
    this is the kinda shit I expected to see on /tg/ all those years ago when I was still a neoph-newgfag
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:22 No.1538389
    Cut the minis off the sprue, then follow the same steps. Sprues are a waste of resin.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:22 No.1538392
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    Yo thanks my neckbeardied homies. Just for the good sentiments, here is a tutorial on making capes.

    Step one, mix up some greenstuff.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:22 No.1538393
    Indeed, and that's why it needs to be euthanized.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:23 No.1538401
    Ah, k. ;3

    Will the molding process fuck up any paint on the models?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:24 No.1538406
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    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:25 No.1538420
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    No, you cannot make molds of sprues period. Not with this technique at least.

    Here ya go (it was under molding and casting)

    As for the tutorial
    Step 2: Stretch the greenstuff into a sheet.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:26 No.1538421
    A throwndown
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:26 No.1538427
    technically as long as you arnt selling your casts this isnt illegal.

    re casting happens quite a bit more than you guys would think. a lot of GW limited edition figures used to show up on ebay and are still reguarly cast.

    the only way gw would be fucked from anything like this would be if a chinese manufacturer decided to rip ALL of their plastic range off. SHIT MILLIONS OF MADE IN CHINA SM SPRUES>
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:27 No.1538436
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    I never tried but I would assume so. It depends on whether paint will stick to rubber and whether paint dissolves in ammonia (the solvent the rubber is in).

    Step 3: Place the sheet on a miniature.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:29 No.1538449
    Perhaps when I try this, I shall test it with a painted model.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:29 No.1538451
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    step 4: stretch the green stuff
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:30 No.1538454
    QUESTION: What "is" the greenstuff exsatcaly
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:30 No.1538455
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    Step 5: let harden while hanging in the direction you think the wind should be in
    >> templar dude 04/15/08(Tue)20:31 No.1538460
    Fuck yes, Templar marines here I come!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:31 No.1538461
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:32 No.1538465
    Any techniques you use to cut the exsese off, and can you reuse that resin?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:32 No.1538468
    no actually making molds with sprues is a lot easier and can be done with the help of lego(mold makers favorite) and some oil based clay. The molds would ned to be two piece.

    Its easyer as generally the molds for plastic minis are metal so plastic sprues have no undercuts and such just pull out with no flex needed in the mold.

    it would be a fucking nightmare getting the resin to get to all parts of the mold though. but it would be worth it.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:32 No.1538473
    OP here. Green stuff is a two part epoxy like the resin. When the two epoxies are mixed a catalytic reaction occurs polymerizing the molecular structure, hardening it.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:33 No.1538475
    kneadatite is a modelling putty commonly used for sculpting minatures.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:33 No.1538477
    Two-part epoxy resin. Any kind will do. Greenstuff is a particular kind made by a single manufacturer that GW et. al. resell at inflated prices.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:33 No.1538479
    -resin +putty durr durr hurr
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:34 No.1538485
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:34 No.1538488
    Resin, once formed cannot be reused unless somehow you want little bits for rubble or something.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:36 No.1538501
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    I cut the excess off by sheer force of will, it is a hard process.

    The resin cannot be reused.

    Protip: Never let anything even so much as touch either of the resin jars if it has touched one of the other jars. If that where to happen ALL of the resin in the jar will harden. You will be left with nothing!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:36 No.1538502
    Discards are great to use to decorate bases.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:42 No.1538544
    Hmm, maybe it'd be better to experiment on a few army men first.

    Wonder how well this technique would work with 15mm miniatures.

    Still, kudos to OP.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:43 No.1538552
    This technique works best with bigger minis. Sisters of Battle are about the smallest thing I would try.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:43 No.1538560

    the rubber for mold making wont affect you minis in any way.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:45 No.1538570
    I want to make some casts of a Hive Tyrant and a Carnifex. Is there anything I should be aware of with these larger models? Should I do them in parts?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:47 No.1538581
    Hmm, is it easy/feasible to modify the miniatures before they harden?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:49 No.1538591
    The thing about all casting is that you have to try to remove the minature from the cast after it's been formed. How much of a single minature you cast at once should be based around this practical limitation.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:50 No.1538599

    do it in parts. for the love of god, do it in parts. it wont work any other way.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:51 No.1538605
    OP here. I considered doing exactly what you are proposing. You can cast the body and tail sections mega easy. Everything else you would probably be better off getting from battle wagon bits. On the plus side you get lots of extra arms in a carnifex kit so....
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:54 No.1538625
    i think anyone attempting to do this should go google as much as they can on mold making to understand the basics.

    the op's method works but its very simplistic and with just a little more work you could have re-usable molds that mould produce many more minis befor they start to fail.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)20:58 No.1538650
    whats the grand total in cost, and how many minis can you get from one mold if you are decently experianced?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:04 No.1538686
    Oh well.

    Then, that opens the door to a whole new realm of casting Foundry minis for WAB and FoG.

    Full-scale warfare, fuck yeah.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:04 No.1538692
    wait how do you get the mini out without damaging the rubber mold here?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:05 No.1538696

    im not the op but it really depends on the type of rubber you use for the mold. it wont be much though as you will be working with such small quantities. The amount you produced will be MUCh more than you could buy with the same amount. IF they turn out ok.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:05 No.1538698
    OP here

    $20 for the rubber, $20 for the resin.

    Rubber will make about 100 sister sized molds. Each mold should make about 5-8 guys before giving out.

    $20 in resin should make about 100 guys.

    Don't listen to this guy, I googled, I tried the other techniques, they either are extremely hard or require bigass overheard for a vacuum table and shit.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:08 No.1538720

    he didnt by the looks of it.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:09 No.1538723
    How well does paint hold to the modles?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:09 No.1538725
    you stretch it carefully, if you positioned the mini right there will be a space wide enough to wiggle the figure free whitout ripping and tearing the rubber.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:10 No.1538728
    Need a method for sprues!

    surely you could just make molds of individual pieces?

    even if you did this for like a devilfish or something getting 7 or 8 for 40 bucks is totally rad
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:11 No.1538737
    so a cut along the feet of the mini, then just waggle it out?

    same method for extracting the resin model?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:11 No.1538742

    Dont lisnt to me? Sorry i've only got a few years of experience mold making, (albeit in plaster, same process different materials). Your technique is akin to rolling a retard in a barrel down a hill and saying hes driving a car.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:12 No.1538745

    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:13 No.1538747
    can YOUR method be used for sprues?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:13 No.1538749

    again NONE of the techniques for making proper silicon molds are secret. Everything can be found information and materials can be found with a simple google search.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:13 No.1538752
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:16 No.1538765

    Its not my technique its just mold making in general. The only problem i can see with casting sprues is getting the resin to all parts of the mold. A pressure pot could be used to achive this but when you start to get into that territory you may as well just buy the minis.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:21 No.1538794

    This technique is a well used sculptural Process, and you can actually order a high grade rubber mold that you can use over and over again

    You mix a rubber and catalyst and pour it over the pieces
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:23 No.1538799
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    Yeah, but I am trying to save people the trouble of searching around and having to figure things out. The great thing about this technique is exactly that it is easy to do and hard to screw up, that way as opposed to spending time and money trying to master a technique my fellow fa/tg/uys can go out and by the end of the week have spess mahreens poppin out of molds.

    I have tried many of the other techniques and it cost me a lot. It took me months before I realized this was my best bet and by the end of my ordeal I had spent more money than I would have if I had just bought my tyranids. I simply want to save people the trouble I went through.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:24 No.1538806

    Where are you guys getting this from? Its not as simple as just pouring rubber over what you want to mold and BLAMO RARD-ROLL ITS A MOLD.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:25 No.1538809
    attach bicycle pump to pressure cooker.
    >> Therage, Sorcerer of Tzeentch !UNUZCBsleo 04/15/08(Tue)21:27 No.1538815
    OP, are metal models better than plastics for this method?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:30 No.1538829

    I don't disagree, its just with a little more effort and investment you could mold and cast sprues. your method is fine for certain models but not all. If you invested time in proper techniques you could cast ANY miniature with any amount of parts...now would that be worth it?

    Ive never seen a miniature that uses more than a two part mold.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:32 No.1538837
    OP answers: yes they are, plastic miniatures are light and will often bend and may even break if you try to force them out of the mold too hard.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:33 No.1538845
    Christ what have I done...
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:35 No.1538860
    For me the cost benefit analysis is pretty simple: if the cost to make the mini plus the money I could have made working instead of making the mini, assuming minimum wage, is less than the cost of the miniature to buy, then it is worth it.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:39 No.1538880
    I didn't care about this before, but after thinking about it a bit, it would be a lot easier for me to finish my witch hunter army with helmets on all troops since the normal box of 10 sisters comes with like... 2 sallets.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:39 No.1538884
    OP here. I never heard of this pressure pot before, but it sounds awesome as it removes the need to squeeze out bubbles. I don't have a pressure cooker though and I am not going to buy one just for this, but if I see one at a garage sale I will definitely give this a shot.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:47 No.1538933

    its not the same as a pressure cooker in the respect that it doesnt use heat and steam to generate the pressure.

    For the type of molds you are making vibration could help you get all the air bubbles out. the vibrations with gentle tapping would fore the bubbles out of the resin intake hole. Not sure how you would vibrate the molds though.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)21:58 No.1539023
    hey OP >1538809 here, neither have I but it's such a simple idea that I didnt had to steal it.

    just get one whit a strainer bottom and attach the hose fittings beneath the strainer level so you have a completely flat surface, the standard cooker safety valve keeps the pressure under 15 psi so you'll want to replace it whit a small butterfly valve. dill another hole in the lid and attach the manometer from a pedal type bike pump to make it look fancy and make sure the pressure is not dropping.

    oh. and don't forget to seal everything whit plasteel or other strong epoxy and to keep everything under 60 psi. resin must cure within the pot and the presure released slowly to avoid hitting your face whit a gush of air and condensed water.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:00 No.1539036
    you're not cooking the minis retard, just using the conveniently pre-made pressure chamber. air pressure can come from a compressor, a pump, the gas station or whatever but NOT FROM BOILING THE MINIS.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:03 No.1539059
    This thread is going to be gone when I get home from work :'(
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:06 No.1539072
    then copy it to your flash drive dimwit.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:08 No.1539083
    Then don't go to work.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:09 No.1539095
    This seems like it's asking for something to go horribly, horribly wrong...
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:09 No.1539097
    Urinate on your boss at work. Most likely they will send you home.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:10 No.1539103
    If I am going to die I want to die ripping off GW.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:12 No.1539114
    oh NO IT WONT!!!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:13 No.1539116
    then obviously you're not orky enoug.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:14 No.1539128

    did i say anything about cooking the minis RARD ROLLER?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:15 No.1539131
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    ITT: shit learned in high shcool shop class?

    never tried it for making toy soldiers but blue silicon shit is pretty good for making molds
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:15 No.1539135

    Dont worry GW are doing a pretty good job of fucking themselves in the ass so im sure they wont mind if you jump in for a little swim.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:16 No.1539141
    At least, my dream of Clear Stealthsuits can come true.
    >> Omniczech 04/15/08(Tue)22:17 No.1539148
    Pics now, this would be utter badassery
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:17 No.1539149

    yeah as mentioned b4 silicone is the best material if you want to cast resin. it pick up more detail than other rubbers.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:17 No.1539151
    no sorry, Iwas just making it clear for some stupid fuckers out there that they're not supposed to put fucking ass water in their pussy uncured resin moulds an then boil the fcuk out of them when my asslicking tourrete's shitcock took dickover.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:17 No.1539155
    I'm not sure I follow-- how do you get the holes into the molded minis?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:18 No.1539159
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:18 No.1539160

    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:19 No.1539162
    OP here. Do not use putty molds for miniatures, I wasted so much money on that shit and the bottom line is: you will never get the detail you want. Although, that stuff does look interesting for terrain making maybe.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:20 No.1539172
    could you make vehicles and bits like this????
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:21 No.1539175
    I guess you're supposed to remove the extra material (A.K.A. flash ) after you demould.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:21 No.1539177

    OK let me explain. the ops method will only let you mold and cast miniatures with NO undercuts as its onle a one part mold. An undercut is an area of a sculpture that locks either the mold around the sculpture of the cast in the mold.

    no if you want to cast ANY mini you need to learn to make a two piece mold.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:23 No.1539189
    GW uses a process of molding different from the one described here, it makes holes in minis possible. This technique does not allow for it.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:23 No.1539191

    If you have the right technique you can mold and cast ANYTHING.
    Any mini or tank or part you want. Anything is possible to cast.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:24 No.1539202

    yeah its not like they are doing anything special its just you have got yourself into a really bad method of mold making.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:25 No.1539206
    Two-piece mold, you say? I've never heard the details, but that phrase tends to make people shudder when threads like this appear.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:26 No.1539219
    Vehicles are actually easier to make, the problem is they are ludicrously expensive with this method (by ludicrous I mean $20). Since BW bits sells rhino chassis' for 16, I see no purpose in this.

    Small bits are very hard to do, possible, but very hard.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:26 No.1539220
    nah, vehicles need a lot of bits whit details in both sides to be casted whitout wrapping so they need at leas a 2 part mould and ideally a "shelled" 2 part mould (that is, a soft 2 part mould whit grooves on the outside so it is held by an external 2 part plaster shell).
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:26 No.1539225
    So on your example Necron, the parts you GS'd- how are you, if at all, going to open those up again? (If at all)
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:29 No.1539244
    The greenstuff part will not be removed. The final plan calls for me to sculpt cloaks over all of them like in one of the later pictures of the tutorial. That should hide the excessive greenstuff.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:30 No.1539249
    What's the advantage of the 'shell'?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:31 No.1539260
    Oooh, alright. Thanks much, I'm up to speed now.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:32 No.1539269
    I have no idea if the stuff in the picture is like that, but the silicon I've used before was a thick liquid
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:34 No.1539280

    i dont know why ppl shit themselves when they think about making two part molds.

    if your going to copy mini you may as well do it fucking right. The ops method only work for certain minis and by the looks of the amount of green stuff he has used and the amount of resin flash he has had to clean up he mold have saved a shitload of time in the long run by making the molds properly.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:34 No.1539285
    it shouldn't, its basically doing op's technique for one side, flipping it over and doing the other side while making sure they wont stick to each other. it's actually less time consuming and leaves less flash to clean up but the casting tends to be trickier than "pour and pray"

    this guy sells the rubbers and resins and has a whole bunch of videos on casting. you don't specifically need his rubbers but the techniques are there:


    actually the jew tube is filled whit useful crafting info, it's just kinda tedious to sort the crap from the crop.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:37 No.1539310
         File :1208313476.jpg-(54 KB, 600x401, Foundry 6.jpg)
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    when you say two part mold do you mean like what you use in foundry? isn't that the same as you use to make plastic models?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:39 No.1539318

    hive mind

    its easy to make two part mold ESPECIALLY when the minis are new and the mold lines havent been cleaned off. Its practically TELLING you how to divide the mini and where to make the pour offs.


    a ahrd shell stops the rubber from moving and therefor stops the casting resin from warping in the mold.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:40 No.1539323
    Pair of questions:

    1: How easy is it to tel if the models have been done this way after painting--am I going to have the owners of my LGS go all shitstorm at me after taking one look at my models?

    2: should pieces done like this be all one piece, or is it easy to break them up into multiple sections (for easy weapons changes etc.)?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:41 No.1539330

    yup. all mold making is practically the same but uses different materials. The plastic minis that GW make are made in computer cut metal mold and they use some form injection molding.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:43 No.1539336
    it prevents the rubber part of the mould from sagging under it's own weight and thus messing whit your thin canopies, long " big rivets and flaky zimmerith"textured hull plates and intricate baroque ironworks. for most flat pieces a couple of planks will do but on curved pieces where the parting line follows a curvy pattern specially made shells should be done.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:46 No.1539358
    so basically all you need is a cnc milling machine and an injection molder?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:48 No.1539376
    Does silicone work well with fine details, seems really goopy.

    They look identical, but if they pick them up hey will know, oh, they will know.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:48 No.1539379

    it depends what mini you have decided to re-cast. If its plastic then no as it will be the same weight but having a plastic special character that in normally led might give it away. also if your recasts are shit and all fucked up, that could be anothr give away.
    >> The Hand 04/15/08(Tue)22:49 No.1539384

    Yes. That is all you need.

    Oh, and probably some sort of CAD program.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:49 No.1539388

    lol, well yeah but silicon and resin will also do if you want to recast.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:51 No.1539402

    good silicon will pick up your fingerprints on the mini you are molding.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:53 No.1539417
    your best bet is to cast plastic minis (harder to tell from resins, especially if you weight down the base) before assembly and whitout removing the original mould lines. part your moulds exactly the same way GW did whit their and try and keep ypur spure ports as close to theirs as your silicone allows(try and get the "runniest" one). to check if it's done just leave a thin over pour around the pouring spout, once that part set it will all be set cause the thinnest parts (the actual details) always set the last but play it safe and let it sit twice as long as recommended.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:54 No.1539427

    yeah silicon is the best molding material for this scale adn csot. it will pic up EVERYTHING on the mini, every tiny bit of detail but it will also pick up any scratches / damage to the mini.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:57 No.1539441
    ok guys im going to get some simple SM sprues from ebay and try to see how good i can make resin versions of them....WISH ME LUCK.

    dont hold your breath as im lazy as fuck and it will probably take me a moth of Sundays to get started.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:57 No.1539443
    souldn't it be easier to make a copy of the parts while they're still on the sprue?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:57 No.1539444
    nah, fabricators come whit a printing medium that takes both melted plastic and white metal whitout burning and their own cad programs so its actually easier but GW likes supporting their local 6 axis CNC company.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:58 No.1539449
    archive this shit
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)22:58 No.1539451
    please please someone make one of those pics that i can zoom in on to save this thread.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:00 No.1539465
    OP here, I am intrigued by this silicon material, where may I purchase some?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:02 No.1539492
    Smash open your computer.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:03 No.1539494
    you know what else mould making and casting skill are useful for? fucking everything!!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:03 No.1539501

    yeah definitely easier if your using the two part method then it practically shows you where to part the mold.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:05 No.1539509
    fukeen everywhere, just fucking shit google it dickwadcuntass.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:13 No.1539540
    Out of curiousity, can any of the 1 part mold naysayers actually show evidence that two part molds can be used to make warhammer scale miniatures at home? Obviously it is possible, but has anyone actually done it?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:17 No.1539566
    Hey OP, would you mind making a youtube video of how you do your technique?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:19 No.1539572
    I wouldn't mind doing it, but I don't have a video camera sadly.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:21 No.1539577
    Would you mind stealing one or borrowing one from some one? :P
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:21 No.1539578
    dont OP..

    theyll find you.

    this is serious stuff you are forging copyrighted goods. youi are counterfeiting and you CAN go to jail for this. the least of your punishments if found wont be a warning GW will either fine you into bankruptcy or send your ass to jail. i appreciate this thread SO much as i was playing with ideas of counterfieting GW's goods as well but i wasnt even going to tell my friends because if it got out it would get to GW somehow.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:24 No.1539595
    you wouldn'have to demo a faghammer model
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:24 No.1539596
    Is it still illegal if I don't sell them or use them in GW sanctioned affairs? Just out of curiosity though, I will never stop my righteous war against the man!
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:25 No.1539600
    Its only illegal if you sell the resin models you make
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:26 No.1539602
    well lets see...do you want actual links to some one else pirating GW's licences whit a two part mould for every lawyer to see or any small enough 2 part mould will do?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:28 No.1539614
    I'm confused as to how it is illegal to reproduce things that I own for personal use.
    Please explain the precedent to me, anonymous.
    >> bitter angry 40kfag !3GqYIJ3Obs 04/15/08(Tue)23:30 No.1539637
    its not illegal unless you try to sell them.

    if you reproduce them you can not use them in a games workshop store or a games workshop ran tourney because they are not games workshop product. only reproductions of them. they would be confiscated at most
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:32 No.1539650
    illegal downloading is still illegal if your the only one who listens to it.

    it is copyrighted.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:33 No.1539657
    Can you give them away as gifts?
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:34 No.1539662
    all you who think its not illegal go to GW's legal page. i dont know it. somethign about any reproductions of their copywrited products without permission are illegal.

    also there was some people trying to make a warhammer movie for free just to download. they werent selling it and GW shut them donw
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:35 No.1539672
    British company, British laws. Over there a company can sanction what you as a user can and cannot do whit their product.

    GW is known for forbidding shit like mixing parts from 2 different lines, making mould even if for personal use and painting them whit "off company" brands of paint and according to British law they're entitled to sue the ass off of you if so they please.


    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:35 No.1539674
    Isn't it actually legal to make personal copies of music though? My understanding was that it was the distribution part that was illegal.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:37 No.1539686

    Although I expect you'll be getting a knock on your door.

    That, and plastic SoB infantry: Fishy. Hope nobody notices.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:37 No.1539687
    non prosecuted =/= Legal. but fuck them sideways and fuck the police in the nose too.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:37 No.1539691

    GW will come to your house and kill your dog. THIS IS PROVEN
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:38 No.1539695
    Well, he doesn't have to actually use GW models... he can like use a lump of clay for all I care.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:38 No.1539696

    yes. you are allowed to copy any type of media you own, as long as they are just backup copies. you can not sell / give them away and it would be illegal for anyone else to have a copy of your backup
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:41 No.1539712
    don't you guys know? we have a GW snitcher amongst us right now, better change your proxies and get a dog.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:41 No.1539714
    Nah the changes to the law in the states conflicts with the backup-copy.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:42 No.1539721
    Sweet, when GW comes to my door I will tell them I have 100 backup copies of the 3 sisters of battle I bought.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:42 No.1539722
         File :1208317332.jpg-(46 KB, 707x530, bmepb529194.jpg)
    46 KB
    But do these Britfag laws apply to us colonials? And if so, how and to what extent?

    Wow, they even disallow getting tattoos of the Aquilla or whatever. What a pack of dicks. Which is weird, because I've seen a ton of redshirts with their army symbols tattooed on themselves.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:42 No.1539728

    I have a dog. I better make backups of it, just in case.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:43 No.1539734
    I fucking lol'd.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:45 No.1539749
    Fuck you, I'm gonna start making some "back up" money, Just in case.
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:45 No.1539750
    >> Anonymous 04/15/08(Tue)23:47 No.1539763
    yup. they killed Damnatus in Germany, they canned the Taiwanese sweatshop that recasted forgewold (and chink whit them) and they're going to come to you basement and "cheese-grate" your tattoo off.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:14 No.1539921
    Psh. Damnatus is all over the internet.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:28 No.1540015

    Yea, GW has no idea how to really promote their product, and they kinda have a backwards policy about it "We sell minis to assemble, and chop up to whatever you want, but only in teh manner we say so, and no other personal made products either.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:31 No.1540036

    well you know what happened last time the dirty brits tried to impose their laws on us colonials.

    i say we all raid our local GW and throw all the product in the harbor.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:32 No.1540045

    Too bad the Boston GW closed...
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:33 No.1540048

    would that not have been epic?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:35 No.1540058
    PROTIP: They were still dicking with us Aussies long after Boston.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:35 No.1540060
    It would have been hilarious if everyone was dressed up as Ork's, and was screaming "WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH" as they robbed the Boston GW and threw it into the harbor.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:37 No.1540068
    cops have more important things to do than go after people with pirated toys.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:38 No.1540077
    That's why GW has a cadre of ninja assassin-thieves.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:39 No.1540080
    but lawyers don't
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:56 No.1540186
    if people aren't getting v& for pirating hollywood movies I doubt anyone's going to get arrested for making copies of little plastic soldiers
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:57 No.1540195
    how easy would it be to just do this to a whole sprue?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)00:57 No.1540197
    I can see it in court. The idea makes me lol.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)01:11 No.1540303
    Any similarly-sized mold plz
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)01:21 No.1540373
    this shit archived or what?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)01:25 No.1540399
    if not, why not.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)01:47 No.1540527
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)06:23 No.1541806
    Mmm gummy sisters...... OM NOM NOM NOM
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)06:49 No.1541890
    the only reason i can see myself doing this is to get my sisters army i have so desperately wanted.

    thanks for making my dreams come true, OP
    >> Inquisitor G 04/16/08(Wed)07:17 No.1541952
    Total, pure, gold, this thread is.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)07:22 No.1541971
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)08:30 No.1542126
    Going back to a way of getting the bubbles out, could you use a vibrating game controller?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)09:29 No.1542323
    You could try but remember, anything the resin touches will forever be ruined, so for god's sake be careful.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)09:32 No.1542330
    Better off buying a cheap blender wand and using it. Less expensive, constant and gentler vibrations.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)09:35 No.1542339
    A vibrating table is easy to make. You need an outer frame, an inner table part, and 4 springs. You attach the middle part to the frame with the springs at the 4 corners, and then get an electric motor with some sort of asymmetrical weight on it and attach it to the middle part.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)09:43 No.1542365
    OP has earned a name.

    I propose Pirate-san.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)09:51 No.1542386
         File :1208353899.jpg-(63 KB, 800x282, b131326533.jpg)
    63 KB
    I will accept this title, mainly because I love this video
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:07 No.1542425
    This is when you take the mini out carefully?
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)10:13 No.1542449
    You really don't have to be too gentle with the miniature unless it is fragile. The most important thing is to be gentle with the mold itself if you made it thin (which I prefer) or when you release the finished product if it is fragile (I have had heads get left behind in molds before).
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:22 No.1542482
    Now I can make a swarm of Gargoyles! My dreams have come true!
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:22 No.1542485
    I'm savvy for Pirate-san.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:23 No.1542486
    Could this work on the metal Daemonettes? I have a bunch kicking around, and might want to make more before I paint em.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:25 No.1542490
    Gaunts with clear plastic insect wings and greenstuff in the mouth for bio-plasma.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)10:26 No.1542492
    Metal daemonettes are doable but will be tricky. prepare to do a lot of pinching and removing them from the molds will be tough work. But doable. If you are willing to sacrifice the mold after a go though they are damn easy.

    Gargoles need to be done in two parts: wings and body+head, or at least that is how I did it. Really easy to do though.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:37 No.1542524
    Awesome thread.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:45 No.1542558
    Is this rubber food safe? Could I make them out of... Chocolate?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)10:49 No.1542566
    Prepare to pay for your deliciousness, vile heritic!
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)11:08 No.1542608
    The rubber seems safe enough, it only dissolves in ammonia and doesn't seem at all labile. I don't think you could get your chocolates out of the mold though, not unless it was a very hard chocolate. You could definitely do hard candy though. Put a stick in it while it hardens and you could have Sister of Battle Lollipops, NONE PURER!
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:18 No.1542623
    This could make for interesting games. Eat enemy models you kill.

    Especially appropriate for Tyranids.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:20 No.1542625

    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:21 No.1542629
    Holy shit om nom nom nom nom
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)11:24 No.1542638
    I think I know what my next tutorial will be about.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:37 No.1542678
    This won't be 100% /tg/ until the edible models are made of fried meat.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:39 No.1542680
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:40 No.1542685
    Anyone want to try that?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:40 No.1542687
    /tg/, you never cease to amaze me.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:42 No.1542693
    Especially appropriate vs sisters of battle?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:49 No.1542736
    For anyone attempting any sort of casting: READ THE MSDS OF THE CHEMICALS INVOLVED.

    I cannot emphasize this enough, as the mercaptan amine hardeners used for most resins are serious shit, they can permanently blind you, and the fumes are pretty harsh. Nothing that can't be avoided with care and appropriate measures (the goggles, they do something!) but not to be taken lightly in the slightest.

    Gloves are a good idea too, as skin contact with liquid resins can cause sensitization to resins, which could make future work with green stuff an exercise in allergic reactions.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)11:53 No.1542761
    You know, for a filthy pirate, you're a good man.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:02 No.1542806
    I'm not a pirate, myself. But I've worked with resins in the past, and the mental image I get of a legion of semi-retarded fa/tg/uys attempting this without understanding the inherent risks puts a sour taste in my mouth.

    I'm just looking out for you guys.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)12:10 No.1542853
    You are indeed a good man, I on the other hand do what I want because a pirate is free! I do my molds indoors and bare handed. I am not dead yet, but I have been only doing this for like a year, so that isn't saying much.

    I am actually a scientist by trade, and with all those safety courses I am forced to take you would think I would know better.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:12 No.1542865
    Right, but you know what you're getting into, and you know the procedures that should be followed in the case of extreme fuck-ups.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:15 No.1542878
    I might try this with some of my Vosties (especially the Heavy Bolter team if I can)
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)12:22 No.1542934
    True, I read all the safety stuff beforehand. The only reason I ignore a lot of it is because I know I can avoid the problems. Like I don't wear gloves because I don't get any resin on my hands. I work indoors because I spend a little extra for low fume resin, and even then I keep the windows open. And if I ever ingested any I would see a physician and get my stomach pumped.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)12:26 No.1542956
    Vosties would mold up pretty good with this technique with the exception of the gun barrels. those may be tricky. Sisters are ideal because they are the same for the most part but have stubby bolters.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:27 No.1542962
    How well would this work with resin?
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:28 No.1542969
    That was what I thought of, too. The rifles do poke out quite a bit on some of em. Even if each mold is only one use, it still gets me cheap Vosties.

    I'm tempted to do them that way since I can't order them from my LGS, so I would only be screwing GW, not my LGS dude.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:32 No.1542998

    What about a... Vibrator? all joking aside, they come in all shapes and sizes, aren't that expensive for lower end ones, and are pretty much designed for this exact thing.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)12:33 No.1543003
    You can always remove the barrels and say they are using carbines. You could also use greenstuff to make the barrels look wrapped in cloth. That would at least make them easier to mold.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:47 No.1543054
         File :1208364477.jpg-(38 KB, 320x176, motherofgodip5xz3.jpg)
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    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)12:49 No.1543064
    Hello death korps of krieg army on the cheap!
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)13:01 No.1543099
         File :1208365280.jpg-(38 KB, 650x596, standsquad.jpg)
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    These guys were basically designed for 1 piece molds like the ones described here.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:29 No.1543184
    epic win
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:33 No.1543193
    Use condoms for making/holding moulds.
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)13:36 No.1543201
    Interesting idea. Doesn't really help with 1 part molds but may make an interesting 2 part mold. Place miniature in, fill with silicone or rubber, cut in half, receive bacon....
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:39 No.1543207

    and its lubricated.

    Sometimes ribbed, flavoured ones are one step closer to those edible models mentioned earlier.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:39 No.1543208
    Ok, I'm no lawyer but here's what I get from the US.games-workshop.com/legal site. This is different from the UK site.

    It SEEMS (and note that I use the word seems in conjunction with the above statement "I'm no lawyer") that in the US, they do not have a blanket "casting is not legal" policy. This is not the case in the US where casting is most definitely illegal even if no sale occurs. Instead, they make note that in some places it is not legal-this could be an attempt to scare people who want to take them overseas or more likely that state law could impact the legality. Also, be sure to check if you are in a US territory (Guam, Puerto Rico etc.).

    Second, they may attempt to take you on anyway due to US trademark and copyright laws, which basically require a certain level of prosecution for copyright protection or you lose the copyright, as long as there is an attempt at copyright infringement.

    I do need to point out something else though: most people are refering to archival copy laws. So far, these are ONLY known to be effective in regards to software and audiovisual media, not physical goods. So you should look elsewhere before you try to justify that in a court of law. Alternatively, onl use it in regard to out-of-print materials.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:43 No.1543239
    They have to catch us first!

    If you just play with friends it should be fine - but tornament officials look for things out-of-place.

    Police raids are going to be more interested with the child porn on your computer than the models under your bed.
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)13:53 No.1543287
    >>1543208 here
    that should have read "In the UK casting is definitely illegal," not in the US
    >> Pirate-san 04/16/08(Wed)14:12 No.1543357
    Yeah, I think if the FBI beats down my door they will have bigger things to worry about.

    "Get down on the ground!"
    "Oh shit it' du feds yo!"
    "Captain we found these" *holds up sisters of battle*
    "My god, be made copies of the heavy flamer ones too, you make me sick you bastard!"
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)14:29 No.1543425
    Auto sage nOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
    >> Anonymous 04/16/08(Wed)15:20 No.1543708
    Say, I'm looking to build up a Space Marine army based around the Dark Angels chapter or a successor thereof and was hoping to get a bunch of Cypher's power plants to put on them.
    Would this process be good for something so small and fiddley?

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