REAL MEN USE REAL RUST

so it's actual rust, not just an effect?

how does it stand up over time? did you use a sealant after using it, like matte varnish or something, and if so how did that affect the look?

i ask because this sounds like something i might try myself.

Here's a pic of an iron bridge model painted with this stuff and sprayed with the activator twice.

Look at the way the rust even makes patterns, bunches up around rivets, and has changes of color in spots.

So, if you need a rust effect on your minis... you might wanna look for this stuff. They also have Bronze, copper, and other metals, with patina sprays to make them rust blue, green, and other colors. Cool stuff.

You can get dry pigments you brush on and then blot in isopropyl alcohol over it to 'activate' it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3Z0Au4-9B8

I would try to find the coolminiornot pdf thats floating round, can't find a /rs/ link but they go over several rust techniques that are fairly simple.

One cheap/no so good way is drybrush metal/ dry brush copper/ chestnut ink wash. Textured paint on the first coat will give you the oxidized metal look.

>>5169141Real men use Real rust

Then I must be a real man... because the paint has IRON dust in it, and the rust activator just makes it rust faster.

>>5169146so it's actual rust, not just an effect?

how does it stand up over time? did you use a sealant after using it, like matte varnish or something, and if so how did that affect the look?i ask because this sounds like something i might try myself.

Yep, here's what the bottle says.

Metal Efect water base iron metallic paint contains real iron particles and thus will tarnish naturally over time.

The rust activator contains a weak watered acid and copper salts.

As for how it holds up... it's rust. Put a little matte varnish on it and I'm sure it'll be fine. But like I said, this is something new for me too and I'm still trying it out. It seems to be pretty fuckwin though. The mini's I've painted it with have all given out pretty complex and awesome looking rust results. I'm sure that if I wet the minis down too that the rust will run and streak without too much effort, making even more realistic effects.

All in all I'm pretty impressed with it.

this would be perfect for scenery that i have, especially since most of it isn't made out of metal or plastic and is a bitch to paint.

>>5169166
Meh... I watched the video... Sorry but that rust just looked meh to me. It didn't have the sort of complexity that real rusted metal has.

This has complexity. (see pic) See the way the metal looks pitted, how some areas naturally have more rust than others? How some of the unrusted iron still peeks out and how nature and gravity have given it patterns?

Besides, the rust pigment stuff has been on the scene for a while now, this stuff hasn't...it's only been used in model railroading so far.

>>5169225this would be perfect for scenery that i have

Same here. I foresee some of the antenna towers and fences, and bunkers getting a coat of this stuff, followed by some careful sponging and spraying of the activator.

I just tried it out on an epic ork battle wagon, and it's perfect. Got into all the little crevices that rust gets into and damn but it looks awesome. I could see using this over the primer, then do a slapdash pain job leaving areas unpainted, then use the activator and viola instant orky vehicle with strategic rusty bitz

i don't suppose you know how it reacts to balsa wood or pink foam insulation? a bunch of my scenery/terrain is made of it, although i usually seal and prime it before painting.

I fucking love you for pointing this out Ifurita.

>>5169390i don't suppose you know how it reacts to balsa wood or pink foam insulation?

Should work like any water based acrylic, seeing as that's what it is.

I'd suggest using their acid proof primer though. They recommend that it be applied over their primer... but every paint company says that (use our stuff)

The cool thing is that it also comes with other patinas. Like this. (see pic)

That's using "pale gold" paint, and then spraying the "blue patina" activator on it. Pretty fucking cool huh?

If you want that blackened bronze look, you just use black patina spray on it.

Holy crap, I could see using this sort of thing on Necrons.

Awww man. Damn it, namefag, now I know I'm going to go spend on this stuff. Fuck!

Seriously though, this looks pretty interesting.

This was my first attempt at rust. Just some orange paints and metallics.

>>5169124
WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE A WEBSITE/BLOG?

seriously whenever you post here about anything involving models shit gets epic.

and you will need a website anyway once your patent gets through.

Personally, I know about this stuff, since I used to do a lot of scale models before I got into 40K. Honestly, I like using Vallejo Smoky Ink, which is kind of like a gel. Ifyou brush this stuff lightly onto weapons etc, it gives them more of a tarnished look.

Also, pastel dust is awesome stuff. They make pigments specific for mud colors, but you can grind up some red pastel dust for Mechanicum armies, or whatever. Really makes the vehicles look dirty, muddy, or whatever effect you want.

Also, for a really interesting weather effect, you can base coat your entire tank with a metallic color. Take some rock salt (not deicer salt, will fuck up your paint) and sprinkle it where you want the color to show. Moisten it enough so it sticks, then paint over with your finish color. Wash off the rock salt with water when everythings dry, and you have awesome flaked paint effect.

>>5169767

Okay, I'm sold. That looked awesome. But where do I get this stuff? I called my FLGS and they'd never heard of this stuff.

>>5169882 Where do I buy this stuff?

Okay, first off, you'll not find it at a hobby store. This is a weathering effect paint that you can buy at a local paint store.

I went looking for it at a model train shop.. nada. I called like a dozen game stores in seattle zip. Nothing.

I did a search on google of "Modern Masters metallic effect paint distributor" and added my city name... bam... like 3 stores with maps to them in the seattle area.

All of them... the same sort of place you'd buy house paint, shellac, wood stain, sealer. I found Daly's paint, it was a kinda upscale paint place in Bellevue Wa. they had a complete selection. Pure awesome.

I was temped to buy one of everything, they have a whole range of cool paints and effects by these guys.

So, google paint stores in your area, someone will have it or will be able to order it for you. Seriously though one 6 oz jar will probably last you years.

does this work on the silicon mini's made in your epic tutorial involving delicious pink cake?

All I really have to add to this thread is thank you, I'll try finding a local shop that sells this stuff.

>>5169839WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE A WEBSITE/BLOG?seriously whenever you post here about anything involving models shit gets epic.

Honestly... because I look at all the bloggy neck beard sites and it scares me. I mean it's a hobby... for fun. These people take all this mini stuff WAYYYY to seriously. Me, I like sharing and actually talking to people. Besides, putting it up on a blog seems so impersonal. Here I get to talk with you and banter, and use words like "shit" and "fuck" without having to worry that some mommy out there will read my blog over their kids' shoulder and write to my isp and demand I take my horrible cussing down.

I'm enough of a fucking adult that I should be able to use the language I want to. Blogging puts stuff up for scrutiny.

Besides... heh. noone would say "Wow, such epic threads!" if all I did was post "Hey, look at me, I just posted new stuff on my livejournal on modeling!"

Here I can post something /tg/ revelvant, support the /tg/ community, and maybe learn something while I'm at it. (see a couple comments up, there's some cool modeling info from an anon)

Finally, because I secretly worry that if I did, I'd look like a huge fucking attention whore. That is what all bloggers are, amirite?

>>5169938
point, but still just some kind of archive of all this stuff.

seriously this shit is good.

>>5169906

also what this guy said.

>>5169906 Does this work for plastic minis?

Affirmative, anon. I just painted up an epic scale ork battle wagon with roller (pics will appear later when I get home) with the stuff, and then spritz it. Fucking rusted up like the thing was made of iron and had been sitting in the backyard for 5 years. Seriously, all I did was primered it black, put a little of this iron paint on it, then let it rust. Just that alone looks awesome. If I add some bright yellow, some red and pick out a few things with brass, it'll be a proper ork battle wagon ready to go.

Got any pictures of how it looks on ork minis? Even if they're not finished yet I'd be interested to see how it looks in small spots on a small model rather than just a whole bridge coated with it.

the rust looks a little... flat.

is it possible to get a rougher texture to it?

maybe by dabbing on the paint instead of just painting it on?

so, can it work by putting the rust paint, painting over it and then using the rust activator or is it easier to paint the model then user the activator on top of it?

>>Got any pictures of how it looks on ork minis?

Not at the moment. Heh, the funny thing is, I brought it into work because I have better light in the office, so I did this coat and rust at work. When I get home I'll take pics and post them here.

The thing is, I'm still working out the best way to use this.

I'm thinking either
A. Put on as a primer, then paint over it, leaving the "rusty spots" paint free and just exposing the metal, then applying the rust activator (letting the rust bloom and run down the paint.

or
B. Paint the mini first, then apply this in "rust zones" and then use the activator on it.

Both seem like reasonable uses. But I was so impressed by this stuff I figured "Hey, share it, see what other people come up with too" Mostly because I'm nNOT so conceited that I'd assume I'm the only person that will come up with uber cool ideas how to use this stuff.

Mah Deathguard need this

Does it look out of place at all? that is my main concern, that with all the paint and the scale, actual rust may seem jarring, probably depend on the general theme of things I'd recon.

>>5169987 rust looks flat

Actually, if the original pic had been a little more zoomed in, you'd see that it's got all sorts of textures to it. The rust is real rust, and is rough and powdery. It also gets all sorts of variations of color. From really light orange, to dark browns... it just sort of "happens". Like I said, when I get home, I'll post some pics of this rusty epic battle wagon.

>>5170007so, can it work by putting the rust paint, painting over it and then using the rust activator or is it easier to paint the model then user the activator on top of it?

Donno yet, both seem perfectly viable to me. Gonna try them both tonight. I think it would depend on how you want the mini to look. I'm thinking prime, put a coat of this on, let cure, paint mini, use a q-tip to rub off some of the paint while wet (or do the rock salt trick... I like that trick, I gotta try that), exposing the iron paint, let the thing dry and then use the rust activator. That way rust will run down on the paint in streaks... like real rust does. But I suppose painting then rusting it up afterwards would work fine too.

Best bet is to try em both.

this will probably sound extremely stupid. but if you put on the iron paint, paint over it in red, and then rust it, do you think you would get a reasonable blood splatter effect?

MODELS FOR THE MODEL GOD!

RUST FOR THE RUST THRONE!

Hah. Most excellent. This stuff looks perfect for Cryx, too. Do you have any pictures of the black bronze? I'm thinking that might do wonders for some Skorne trophies...

Also, lawl at autohiding tripcode threads.

>>5170098
fuck those people, they miss out on great shit like this.

>>5170036 Jarring?

Looks good to me so far. Thing is, just like paint, it depends on the model and how you use it. I'm just suggesting people try it. It looks to me like it's got all sorts of applications.

I could, for example, see someone painting a necron monolith with this stuff, rusting it, then brushing most of the rust off, just leaving it so it looks like it's running in the cracks and crevices on the thing. It's look awesome I bet.

>>5170112
>>5170098
names and tripcodes or the lack thereof are irrelevant , post quality should be the only measure to a man's worth in the board.

>>5170014

If it actually has iron filings in it, wouldn't that make for a terrible primer? How would paint over the top of it look?

>names and tripcodes or the lack thereof are irrelevant , post quality should be the only measure to a man's worth in the beard.

fix'd

>>5170147
im going to guess that its blended in pretty well. its not like it has giant chunks of iron sticking out of it.

Venerable paintfag, do you have any recommendations for painting Thousand Sons in a way that will make them stand out, whilst retaining their blue-yellow color scheme?

I'm starting an army with them (499 pts first, upgrade to 999 later), and although I've been painting a long time on larger plastic models, but have been wondering how to go about making them look awesome as the centerpiece of the army. Recommendations for the Sorceror would be welcome too.

>>Hah. Most excellent. This stuff looks perfect for Cryx, too. Do you have any pictures of the black bronze? I'm thinking that might do wonders for some Skorne trophies...

Sure... see pic here. This is using the rich gold paint, and the black patina. It's just a plater pot made to look like age blackened and patina bronze (bronze gets black, then blooms whitish green spots from the copper rusting)

>>Also, lawl at autohiding tripcode threads.

I'm just trying to give something back to /tg/
There's lots of tripfags here that just try and contribute and use names so you know that the person writing the thread isn't some shilling anon.

>>5170147If it actually has iron filings in it, wouldn't that make for a terrible primer? How would paint over the top of it look?

More accurately, it has iron particles in it. Iron Filings just sounded more manly. heh

But that said... good question! It actually is fine enough you can use it in an airbrush (from the source I found this from, on modelrailroadtips.com) They said dilute it 50/50 with water and an airbrush can spray it just fine. So the particles are nice and small.

That said, it IS a little rougher than normal primer (mind you I use Tamiya primer... and that stuff dries as smooth as an egg shell, so depending on the primer you use, this might be almost the same as your own primer)

Again, I'd suggest trying it out or convincing a friend to go in with you and buy some together. Hell 4 friends chipping in 2.50 each for 6 oz still gives each person more than a full pot of paint (typical pot is 12 ml or .4 oz... so one 6 oz jar is 177.44 ml.. or just shy of 15 pots of paint. Like I said... this stuff is pretty cheap.

>>5170243
is that with or without the activator?

>>5170080this will probably sound extremely stupid. but if you put on the iron paint, paint over it in red, and then rust it, do you think you would get a reasonable blood splatter effect?

Absolutely no idea. I'd mix the paint and rust activator together with a little black patina though, and then use a brush to create the spatter effect. Believe it or not, a toothbrush works great for that. Just look at your bathroom mirror and see the spatter it throws out.

>>5170257Activator?

Shit... sorry, I forgot. Activator bottle is like $3.99 or $4.25 something like that for 4 oz. of spray. My error in not mentioning that.

>>5170308
oh ive been using tooth brushes for stuff like that for a while.

works great. but sometimes its to spread out.

You said that this stuff isn't easy to find in model or hobby shops... so what exactly is it supposed to be used for?

I can't forsee a situation outside of model painting where you need to make something rusty.

>>5170564

plaster or ceramic vases, planters, decorative bowls, door hinges, cupboard handles, dresser drawer knobs, old lamps, bedframes, metal chairs, lighting fixtures, etc.

used to make them look antique or weathered for interior design projects, mostly. not so much rusty, but bronze or copper patina is often used.

>>5170564 What's it for if not for modeling?

Well, architectural and decorative stuff mainly.
Go here. http://www.thepaintstore.com/Metal_Effects_s/108.htm and scroll down.
A gallery of rust effects in use.

Some of it's rather attractive.

>>5170564
Dang, others answered it first, but think about Simple Green.

A great miniature stripper, amirite?

But that's not what it's intended for. So, this rust paint stuff isn't intended for minis but someone "discovered" that it could be used for it.

Still kinda want some pictures but it's getting late here :(

bumping for the good of all

Please report back on how well sealant works at keeping the dust held.

This seems like a really cool thing to use but not at all worth getting rust dust on my playing areas, carrying cases, fingers, etc. every time I handle a model with it. I imagine it's not a problem for train modelers because they never move their shit when it's done, it just sits and looks pretty.

Okay, as promised, once I got home I grabbed my camera and took a quick picture.

Okay, mind you this was just an Epic scale Ork battle wagon that has gotten no more than a quick coat of primer a while ago, then got shoved in my pocket this morning and taken to work. I then slathered on a thin coat of this rust paint. (The thing looked kinda dark charcoal nearly black) and then hit with a quick spritz of rust activator.

It's been shoved back in the pocket and taken home and photo's. So just be aware, this is just a crude trial run for using it in epic.

see the way the rust in the deep recesses peeks out?

I'm now going to go grab a couple minis and actually paint them the same way, only one with the rust and without it. That way we can compare the two. I'll put up images of before and after probably tomorrow or later tonight (still have to eat dinner before I paint)

>>1
>>2
>>3
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>>5171917

Kimmo just ain't trying anymore.

Here's a side view.

Now look at the side armor and notice how the rust in that seam and along the skirt is thicker and brighter than the rust on the panels themselves?

It just naturally builds up like that ...and mind you, again, this was just me using a crappy #3 brush to just slap this stuff on the mini as a test. With a nice 000 brush and attention to where I place the iron paint it will create a lot better results.

Also notice how the rust around the turret bottom changes from orange to brown and red.

Finally, look where the roller is joined to the front of the tank. See that around the bolts the rust is thicker?

And to answer the question about the rust falling off...seems to be adhering pretty well. I haven't tried to put any sealant on it yet, but I think it'll be fine.

More pictures will come later.

>>5171956

That is fucking cool. It looks just like an old cast iron thing.

>>5171974It looks like an old cast iron thing.

Yeah, and you can see the grey plastic poking through.. crazy huh?

And remember, that thing is about the size of a 5 cent piece.

>>5172017
That's not a battlewagon, that's a bonecruncha.

I wonder if it would look good with a thin black wash over it. As it is it looks nice and realistically rusted, but I find that mini's are often better looking if you REALLY exaggerate the light/dark contrast. It might not improve it at all, but I would like to see it. Probably will be picking this stuff up for my army soon.

One more question: is it thick at all? Will it obscure tiny details on a 40k infantry size model?

>>5172098is it thick at all?
Heh! Are you asking me if you'll need to thin your paints?

Okay, I'll be serious... it's a little thick, but I only basically drybrushed this stuff on the mini. I didn't slop it on. So I'm thinking a little goes a long way. And the guy that did the rusty bridge... that was airbrushed on 50/50 dilluted with water.

>>Will it obscure tiny details on a 40k infantry size model?

Dude, that's an epic scale mini... 6mm scale, and it didn't obscure detail on that. So I think you'll be safe with a 28mm normal scale mini.

Well, I finished eating so I think I'm gonna sit down and do some painting... I'm thinking a gargant or a stomper or a battle fortress might be my target for the evening.

Sure is viral in here.

>>5172221Sure is viral herp.

Yo, buttmunch, have you even been paying attention? This is NOT some sort of viral marketing shit.

Fuck... the company that makes this stuff we're talking about isn't even a hobby company, they're a paint company like Sherwin Williams.

People trading paint and modeling tips and tricks is not viral, it's hobby related. This one happens to be about rust.

>>5172221
Go fuck yourself. This isn't /v/.

>>5172339
The hell did you find THAT?

>>5171904
that is a work of art. fucking bueatiful. i couldn't even tell it was plastic until you said it was. i thought it was cast in metal. thats going to look great when its painted.

speaking of which do you know how to create an effect that looks like paint scraped off of metal on a mini? like a car that just got keyed... but with more paint missing.

i can never get the effect right.

i think that mixed with the rust would create a great ork mini.

Okay, I decided to get a little ambitious with this test.

I broke out one of my unpainted duplicates of my Epic Scale Hellbore.

I've primed it and am now waiting for it to dry sufficiently that I can begin painting.

Nothing would get rustier, and dirtier, and more pitted than a great big underground assault drill vehicle.

So here's it primed and getting ready trimming and filing and then it'll be ready for paint and rust.

Don't worry, I know it looks a little glossy and flawed right now. It's because I haven't trimmed all the flash and such and filed it down to remove the mold lines. I do that after I undercoat so that the undercoat serves as filler in some spots.

I also know it looks kinda plasticy and a little thick right now. It's fresh tamiya primer, it shrinks and mattes up as it dries. I'll post more when I get it done.

>>5173284
>Epic Scale Hellbore

oh fuck yes

>>5173284
WHATS WITH THAT HUGE FUCKING PENNY?

also is this one of the minis you made yourself with your pink cake tutorial?

>>5173284Hellbore

Holy crap! Those things are fucking expensive as shit! I saw one go for a hundred bucks on ebay. I saw you said this is a duplicate? Do you have an original? Is this one of your plastic/resin mold casts?

>>5173369
Yes... this is a tasty pink cake plastic duplicate.

I have the original metal master tucked away in a box right now.

And that's not a huge penny, it's a huge nickle. See it's got Franklins Monticello on the back? Its the angle of the flash making it look red.

Oh, and this answers the question of someone else. Yes, it's a recast, made from my original metal master.

>>5173428
ahh... huge nickle then. where do you keep finding these huge coins?

and i get a feeling that this shit is going to get very EPIC! (pun not intended but appreciated)

a rusted hellbore duplicate... are you going to use some of the patina also?

>>5173464
I cast them myself (the huge coins).

And yeah, I'm going to try to use both the rust activator and the patina effects also. I figure some of the pipes will be copper or bronze looking (or at least the big imperial eagle will be, so I'll apply a blue green patina to that. The big drill bit will be rusted steel and the body will have big scratches and pits in the surface with rusty or fresh exposed metal in them. I want it too look like it's a Hellbore that has seen use, that it's scraped up it's sides against underground boulders and had it's paint scraped off and it's metal gouged.

We'll see how it turns out. Besides, it's just plastic and I have the molds, I can just bust out a new one if I don't like this one later.

>>5173529
so ill be getting an answer to this >>5172488 ?

you are my hero.

Hey, can somebody post the resin molding tutorial that was posted awhile back? I thought I saved the image but I can't seem to find it in my folders.

>>5173585
It's on Suptg. Just look for advanced and miniatures or something like that.

There's like three threads on how to do the pink silicon cake molds that I use. The one using burma rubber is kinda for only simple easy minis. The one I did is for advanced casting of minis.

>>5173585
the pic shows the shit tier method whit latex shirt moulds, look for Ifuritasfan's threads on two-part silicon mould casting, A.K.A tasty pink cake casting.

>>5173585
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/4055353/
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/4060132/
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/4097623/

>A.K.A tasty pink cake casting.

official name of this method btw

>>5173629
Thanks, man. I was looking for those. was just scouring suptg for them and you'd already posted them

You're awesome!

Ahh well thank you muchly then. If I do happen to have the latex molding image still in my folders I'll remember to trash it.

>>5173658

Well, it's 11 o'clock here... and I've got work tommorow... So I'm gonna leave the minis to cure and dry till tomorrow night and I'll start another thread once I've got them mostly painted.

That way you can all see the effect.

BTW, I think that the "rock salt" trick someone mentioned earlier in the thread is how you do beat up scrached up paint. It'd make sense really. The sharp edges of the rock salt would stick to the partially wet paint and pull of bits and pieces.

I'm gonna try it on this.

I'll let you know how it works out.

>>5173679
if you remove it by rubing it also scratches the paint, and for those "paint puffs up like a blister full of rust" peel-offs there's liquid mask.

All of the Necromunda terrain I just got finished building just got 40 times more awesome.

Now I need to find this shit.

archived
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/5169124/