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  • File : 1252866647.jpg-(46 KB, 861x514, MSPaintTut.jpg)
    46 KB Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:30 No.5845357  
    reposting a couple of paint tutorials from a thread last night. Simple little advice
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:32 No.5845373
         File1252866736.jpg-(65 KB, 861x610, Yellow guide.jpg)
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    the key here is to slowly spread the paint so it doesn't become transparent, you're not really painting it on, more like gently guiding it around
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:34 No.5845394
    So...wait...what you're saying is that to paint, you put blobs of watered down paint onto the model and then let them dry and do it again?

    Isn't that kind of...the opposite of painting?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:36 No.5845419
    That's the key to getting a good, solid coat of a single color.

    Water paint down to milk consistency.
    Apply to model, spread until it's transparent.
    Let dry, repeat.

    And I'm not the OP or the author of the images, it's just how you get a good coat of a color without visible brushstrokes or obscuring details.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:38 No.5845444
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    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:41 No.5845491
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    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:43 No.5845532
    This. Drybrushing is of the devil
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:44 No.5845537
    I've never understood the hate for drybrushing highlights. It's easier and doesn't take as fucking long.

    Also, what do you use to water down your paints? Is water sufficient or do I need paint thinner?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:45 No.5845558
    Water is fine. Drybrushing is only good if you follow it by using the steps taken in the first picture. Also, washes.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:45 No.5845559
    The best part is, I see people saying all the time "BUT TEH GW SAYS TO USE IT, SO ITS MUSTS BE GOOD."

    Fucking no. No one with a shred of skill drybrushes anything except terrain. It's a stupid technique embraced by shitty painters to justify not having to put any effort into their models.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:46 No.5845568
    Because people who drybrush don't paint to look good, they paint to play with painted models. It is shit BECAUSE it takes less time, thus less effort was applied, thus less practice, thus STOP FUCKING DRYBRUSHING IF YOU WANT YOUR MODELS TO LOOK HALF DECENT.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:47 No.5845570
    How do I use washes effectively? I've tried it a handful of times but always managed to fuck it up royally and made my imperial guard look like they just got back from vacationing in Hawaii.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:48 No.5845585
    My personal favorite is future floor polish or if you dont have the money/ cant find it, orange glow wood floor polish. It enhances the flow without making it transparent, so less coats with greater control.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:49 No.5845595
    depends how arsed you are. I do what i call "gaming standard". Base coat, wash, mid tone, high light. Because i hate painting and it takes about 10-15 minutes a model when i'm being average.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:49 No.5845596
    Sorry there's a method to get easy looking models for less effort.

    Bet you guys hate dipping too.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:49 No.5845598
    Good washes are used in moderation. Things like adding brown to the cracks/recesses of bone, darkening up small, hidden areas, and the like. People who use them badly just wash whole models and use it in place of blending in darker colors, even though it leaves harsh borders and ugly lines.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:49 No.5845600

    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:49 No.5845608
    Its hated because its easy and doesn't look as good as much more advanced techniques.

    Its a functional technique that is too easily dismissed by internet toughguy painters who claim they're Slayer Sword quality without ever showing anybody their models.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:50 No.5845617
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    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:50 No.5845622
    0/10, would not read again.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:51 No.5845636
    basecoat the whole model with colors that work together in their pallate, such as, for guard, tan/ khaki/ olive green/ grey/ black. NOTHING ELSE. DONT TRY TO ADD SOME *CONTRAST* OR *FLAVOR* stick to a pallate, then use a wash (for guard devlan mud/ badab black) to bring out the deatail, go back and highlight.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:52 No.5845643
    ITT: Lot's of "I never, ever want to get better at painting."
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:52 No.5845644
    There are a few situations where drybrushing produces good models, but highlighting power armor isn't it.

    Fur, imperial eagles, terminator honors, etc -- small areas of high detail -- work well drybrushed, but you need to be doing multiple layers of it.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:53 No.5845651
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    Well as we discussed last night, drybrushing is fine for models that have, say clothes and shit but shite for flat panel style models (like my black armored SM's)

    I know it works awesome on normal models from my work in 1/35.

    This model has drybrush everything from a base color, even the snow parka was started from a gray and drybrushed through 20+ stages of shade to get the white. The skin is about 8-9 stages. My dad is fucking awesome at this shit, he has some Tau but never finished 'em and we never played. I should get him to take pictures of them so I can post 'em.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:53 No.5845661
    >fucking no

    I loled
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:54 No.5845669
    Why do you give a shit how someone else paints his models? Painting is a personal individual hobby.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:54 No.5845673
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    This model took me around an hour, including the stikkbomba gretchin I glued on it.

    I drybrushed the highlights.

    Everyone that sees it says it looks awesome. Opinion?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:54 No.5845677
    >ITT elitism
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)14:54 No.5845678
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    Vallejos come pre-thinned ;3
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:54 No.5845680
    People who put time and effort into our models don't like it when someone tells us, you could just drybrush that. I DONT FUCKING WANT TO DRYBRUSH. Drybrushing is OKAY for tabletob quality models, but I am trying to learn to paint better, I wouldn't say I'm great, but I'm definitely not shit, plus I'm young and the slayer sword winners are usually 25-35 on average, so I still have time to learn.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:55 No.5845692
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    And the other side.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:56 No.5845707
    My opinion is get a bigger god damned picture.

    Other than that, looks generic and flat. No highlights, no blending, no shadows, just some flat Red and drybrushed Boltgun metal.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:56 No.5845711
    Nah, drybrushing is just as legitimate method as any other...when used correctly. drybrushing the fuck out of entire model is NOT corret method of application. It looks okay on any rough surface though, like fur or...well, models base.
    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)14:56 No.5845714

    drybrushing is less time consuming? what?

    Fuck, that's why I played necron and tau, just prime 'em, spray 'em, and paint some other part of them another color so they're legal.

    I played warhammer to PLAY WARHAMMER, if I wanted to paint as a hobby I'd get a fucking easel.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:57 No.5845716
    A good conversion != a good model, small picture and shit quality dont help either.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:57 No.5845718
    How do you figure the boltgun is drybrushed?

    Jesus Christ, are you just saying shit to make yourself feel better?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:57 No.5845719
    Conversely, people who use drybrushing don't need to hear you going BUT U DIDNT PAINT IT PROPLY YU SUCK
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:57 No.5845726
    Wut? Vallejo paint is thicker than GW, it has the most pigment out of any model paint on the market.

    Vallejo is for squeezing into a pallet, thats why it has a dropper bottle. You're not supposed to put it straight on the brush.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:57 No.5845728
    looks good man :)
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:58 No.5845738
    >Artists only paint using one medium ever, aherf aderf
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:58 No.5845740

    Well we shouldn't get opinionated but it never hurts to share what we know.

    My dad taught me how to paint and everything and at first I rolled like him, but then I started experimenting with new techniques and stuff and made my own style. He tries new shit all the time.

    If you want to go far, at least try different things and pick and choose what you like.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:58 No.5845741
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:59 No.5845759
    Webcam. My normal camera's on the fritz.
    >> Da Red Kommanda 09/13/09(Sun)14:59 No.5845766

    Make kahuna company!
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:59 No.5845767
    It's nota good quality photo but even still the paintjobs looks awful. I certainly wouldn't be soliciting complements for it if I was you.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)14:59 No.5845772
    >took me an hour

    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)14:59 No.5845774
    How about some actual criticism instead of SHIT SUCKS FAGGOT?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:00 No.5845780
    >Why do you give a shit how someone else paints his models? Painting is a personal individual hobby.

    When someone asks for advice/opinion/critique, I'm going to tell them what I think. If you can't take being broken down and told your shit sucks, DON'T FUCKING ASK FOR PEOPLE'S OPINIONS.

    God damn, you people need to get some thicker skin.
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:00 No.5845783
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    Well, i uploaded a guardsman Stumpy picture for a reason, sir!

    Also, a question:

    What's a good way of not mixing previous paints with new ones when switching colours? Washing in water doesnt clean the brush totally, and alcohol leaves crumbs of it still on the hair...

    Is the only solution multiple, clean brushes for each colour?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:01 No.5845791
    Give me a decent sized picture, and I'll tell you everything that can be done better.

    But honestly, you're awfully defensive about it. It's like you only want the positive compliments, and need to make excuses/attack anyone who says it sucks.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:02 No.5845800
    I usually just rub it a bit in some paper towel. Not really sure what the impact on the bristles is on it but the brush is still good...
    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)15:02 No.5845801
    I'm not saying that, what I'm saying was I spent a lot of money to get into a hobby with my old friends so we'd have something to do. I think I played maybe a total of 5 games with my two armies because no one wanted to play, they just wanted to paint. Had I known this, I never would have started.

    It's a similar story at my lgs, all the warhammer "players" are upstairs painting while the warhammer tables get used for everything OTHER than it. shit, last time I was there, there was a group of people playing 3 headed giant at a warhammer table.
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:04 No.5845819

    I, too, wipe them in paper tissues. Still, paint remains on the brush.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:04 No.5845820
    Honestly, I have the worst luck with washes. They never seem to find their way into the seams, and pool all over the place, ruining detail and causing splotchyness.

    I know /tg/ hates drybrushing, but I think it's because many players do a Basecoat-Drybrush-details-done system. Myself, I drybrushed the shit out of my first army (mainly because the how-to book said so), but I did so with many hues. For me it went

    Primer, Reallydarkbasecoat, Drybrush lowtone (Everywhere), Drybrush midtone (easily reached), Drybrush hightone (Topmost surfaces), Drybrush Highlights (very light).

    Though yes, it does look chalky, it was a happy experiment, as I was going for an ash-grey color, and the texture from drybrushing really accented that, while giving the miniatures a grittier look that made them look warn. After a few metallic details and jewling, I was really pleased with the end product. Sure, it wasn't pro, but neither was I. I'm pretty sure that I ended up spending the same amount of time the average "Paint your thins" fatguy does.

    Tried recently using other fatguy techniques with some testbed minis... Some parts are better than others, I'm probably going to start abandoning the wash part. Never turns out well, and soap isn't really helping it.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:04 No.5845824
    I posted then looked at the picture. You trolled me good.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:04 No.5845828
    I regularly play 40k and Apoc games, and still find time to sit down and paint my models to a standard that isn't sinking to 'lol tabletop quality'.

    PROTIP: Painting well is hard. It takes time. We all know this. But you know what? When you PRACTICE painting well, instead of practicing painting badly, YOU GET BETTER, AND IT GETS FASTER.

    You people are just too scared of putting in the work, that you use your shitty crutch techniques as a way of practicing painting shitty models really quickly.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:05 No.5845838
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    Ok, so...I really don't understand the hate for drybrushing, at all.

    Here is a Grey Knight Terminator I painted in 40 minutes, details and all.

    I mostly drybrushed, then did the gold, then the personal heraldry. I don't think it looks TOO bad.

    Thoughts, /tg/?
    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)15:05 No.5845840
    >If you can't take being broken down and told your shit sucks, DON'T FUCKING PICK UP A PAINTBRUSH.

    a lot of my art major ex-gf's needed to learn this.

    >God damn, you people need to get some thicker skin.

    hear hear, people don't know how to cope anymore.
    >> That one Techpriest 09/13/09(Sun)15:07 No.5845858
    I've been painting with flat colors mostly, since I'm not in the mood for going for highlights and or shadows.

    Not enough paint to get that shit right.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:07 No.5845867
    It looks fine, because it isn't half-unpainted with unprimed shit showing.
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:08 No.5845870

    I myself fell for it though, when i first bought vallejos and made a thread about advice.

    It was so heavy it wouldnt even stay on the fucking brush.
    Godlike paint when thinned properly though. AND cheaper AND in larger vials AND doesnt dry up.

    Awesome man, just awesome
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:08 No.5845871
    My rule of thumb for painting:

    If you think it looks good, screw what everybody else thinks.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:08 No.5845873
    The hell?

    I agree with >>5845850
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:08 No.5845881
    Looking pretty Boltgun-Metal-Brushed-Over-Black, bro. Looks like crap.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:09 No.5845887
    Honestly? I think this is what you faggots tell yourself to make up for the fact you such at suck an easy game.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:09 No.5845889
    Someone explain this image; his drawing isn't exactly clear.

    Also how the hell do I do anything BUT drybrush on Orks?
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:09 No.5845895
    Fair enough.

    Show me something you painted.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:10 No.5845903

    suck at such.

    Dunno how the fuck I reversed that.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:10 No.5845908
    I think it looks fine. Jesus, the 40k painting community's as bad as /v/; if something's not a fucking masterpiece it doesn't mean it sucks.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:10 No.5845910
    Are you using modelcolor or gamecolor?

    Modelcolor could paint the fucking sun.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:10 No.5845913
    >painting thread
    >attacking someone's assumed gaming ability

    Oh, ad hominem, how I so do love to see you rear your head! Surely the sign of someone not able to take criticism, when they have to attack someone for a subject entirely unrelated to the topic, no?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:11 No.5845920
    Looks fine to me.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:11 No.5845922
    Add water and paint to pallet.

    Don't cover your entire brush in paint, just a little bit.

    Don't just smash your brush into the model to get paint everywhere, take your time and vrush it on.
    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)15:11 No.5845924
    >You people are just too scared of putting in the work, that you use your shitty crutch techniques as a way of practicing painting shitty models really quickly.

    it's less that I'm "scared" and more the fact that "I really don't care to learn". I can appreciate other people's work, (my buddy mike has a gorgeous Crimson Fists army), but I've never had artistic aptitude for ANYTHING (I can't even draw a stickman right), and constructing/painting a whole army of bastards has zero appeal to me, let along slaving over a bunch of them wasting paint to actually improve in a skill I have no interest improving.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:11 No.5845928
    There's a big difference between "criticism" and "Telling someone their model just plain fucking sucks".
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:11 No.5845930
    Welcome to the internet bro. Thats how everything is.

    Try going to /mu/, /p/, /ic/ and most of the other boards to see exactly the same thing.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:12 No.5845942

    Looks like the white line on the shield is a bit thin, could probably use another coat (or more if you PAINT YOUR THINS). Other than that, I got nothing. Looks good t'me.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:12 No.5845943
    Thanks. I'm still a bit new to painting and, as such, am learning.

    Any advice or constructive criticism?
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:13 No.5845954
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    Most of mine are game colors for, well, plastic minis. Still, they're pretty HEAVY PIGMENTED.

    Are game colors good for plastic as well? I mean, there's got to be a reason they named one brand of their paints "MODEL colors"...
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:13 No.5845956
    water is fine the only real problem is that as you thin down your paint say you have 10 models to work with that mix you have will begin to condense fast thats why some people use A thinner agent Vallejo makes great products for that basica you ,ix 1 part thinner then with water depending on what you wanna do with the paint
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:13 No.5845959
    Would someone be willing to give me some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism on this guy? Sorry for the shitty quality.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:14 No.5845966
    I would, but I'm still new to the painting thing.

    Looks good to me, brah.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:14 No.5845972
    Periods are your friend, comrade.
    >> Kitty-Moogle-Chan 09/13/09(Sun)15:15 No.5845977
    Model colours focus more on real-world hues rather than exaggerated bright colours and such. They're best for when you want an exact colour over a flat surface or as a main tone (to shade up and down) for historical accuracy.

    Or in 40kfag: they have a lot of cool shades of green and brown!
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:16 No.5845984
    Wash the motherfucker. Badab black i think, with sepia into the gold to give it depth. and correct the places you went over the line.Seriously, you can use very simple techniques and have nice models, just be NEAT. don't be scared to go back and correct the mess, or don't be lazy and correct it. It makes a world of difference between "decent model" and "fucking mess"
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:16 No.5845988
    You could start by throwing some shadows in there. Since you went all metallic, it'll be hard to highlight with anything less than a shot of NOT DRYUBRUSHED Chainmail, and then Mithril Silver on the edges of the plates.

    Some darker red (Red Gore) on the sides of that crest to make it more than a solid block of red.

    Some Babab black dropped into the crevices, and some Ogryn Flesh in the gold to shadow the recessed area.

    I would say cover up the black showing through most of the silver, but you probably won't.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:16 No.5845990
    I put a few drops of paint on a palette, add a bit of water with my brush, stir it all up, and paint with it. Then when the paint on the palette starts to thicken, I wet my brush slightly before I put it back in the paint.
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)15:16 No.5845998
    fur, cloth, hair, etc = shit with some texture. You want to drybrush that, otherwise shit ends up looking a bit too smooth. If this is just about painting space marines, sure NEVER use it. But don't tell a fucker he should use it on the pants of his 40 guardsmen or 120 ork boys.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:17 No.5846001
    Thanks, I'll do that.
    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)15:17 No.5846003
    looks orky to me, I'd maybe add a little(lotta) rust, it looks a tad... shiny.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:17 No.5846004
    Game Color is really better for sci-fi/fantasy minis because it comes in a more suitable range of colors and matches the Citadel chart.

    Model Color is better paint but its mostly drab real world shades. It would work for IG but not much else unless you wanted drab and GRIMDARK minis with no bold colors.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:17 No.5846008

    Picture's small, so it's hard to see much detail to give much advice. But I would say that the surfaces look, well, flat. Unfortunately, I have no advice on fixing that other than thin layers to darken parts of it.

    Seeing as it's an Ork vehicle, you might put thin streaks of boltgun metal on areas of red paint to hint that it's worn and scraped away.

    A decent wash would also give the metal a more worn and looted feel, I think.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:18 No.5846019
    For thinning, most model paint companies have a thinner or acrylic medium which does the job better than water, it thins without reducing the coverage too much.
    >> The Sanguine Spectre [Aka Bob Eldar Lazarus] !!jl+Kcx0L06l 09/13/09(Sun)15:18 No.5846020

    Why wouldn't I do that last step.

    Also, again, thanks for the advice.
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:19 No.5846034
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    Although i've got nobody to play with ;_;

    All in all, we've come to a conclusion:


    One final thing, about the brush washing thing, how do YOU wash your brushes efficiently to switch colours?
    >> Trap 09/13/09(Sun)15:19 No.5846041
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    I don't know, a good high contrast camo scheme could probably work for more than IG

    pic related
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:19 No.5846045
    Yeah, I was planning on roughing him up a bit today.

    Also, what wash would you use for making it look rusted?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:20 No.5846046
    Clean your mold lines.

    Blend in some brighter red for highlighting (lol wuts blending?). Remember, red is best highlighted at it's highest point with a light flesh color, and you can blend up to that with a red/orange mix.

    Same for your greens. Damn, dude, highlight something.

    Add some tonal range to all you plates, since the whole model is just large areas of flat color, which is really boring.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:21 No.5846064
    I never thought of doing things this way, that looks really easy.

    Anymore heplful paint images?
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:21 No.5846066


    Half of that is french to me.

    Lol what's blending and what is "tonal range"?
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:21 No.5846067

    Swirl my brush in water and then squeeze it out in layers of paper towel until the paint stops coming out. At that point what's in there is dried or at least not coming out with my other paints.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:22 No.5846070
    lol I say to the boys who don't paint minis.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:22 No.5846073
    >One final thing, about the brush washing thing, how do YOU wash your brushes efficiently to switch colours?

    ...I honestly never had the problem-just wash them in water and dip in another colour. You are however fucked if the paint went under the metal band(which i'm sure has it's professional name) or you let it dry on the brush, since there's high danger it will corrupt the new colour. .
    >> Agouri !!Q+SCob6iFc6 09/13/09(Sun)15:22 No.5846076

    Oh. That. Exactly that. Fucking mould lines.

    They're your worst enemies. Grab a modeling knife, make them go AWAY

    The result will be slightly better overall. The model will actually look as it was intended to be.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:22 No.5846079
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    >> TheDeathMerchant !!SBmK2dAqOW0 09/13/09(Sun)15:22 No.5846080
    1 part devlan mud wash to 3 parts sephia wash, should look like the ol' chestnut ink.

    That shit was great for rust.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:23 No.5846081
    Just a hint: Drybrushing means DRYbrushing. You wipe the brush until no paint stays on the paper. There's still enough paint to reach the desired effect.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:23 No.5846090
    It is table-worthy. You should probably do some lining in with Mithril Silver, ink the gold bits with Chestnut, paint a few things like the Crux Terminatus and the chain with Tin Bitz/Brazen Brass, apply and then clean up a very light blue ink wash to the silver bits, use black ink to carefully write very fine lines of text on the purity seals and scrolls, layer a few shades of blue and white on the blade of the Nemesis Force Weapon to make it stand out as a power weapon (maybe a lightning motif as well?), and of course give it an awesome base. Then you'll be done.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:24 No.5846094
    what? Are you saying that the highlighting technique isn't valid or something?
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:24 No.5846109

    I honestly don't know. Devlan Mud wash looks pretty close to that rusty/dirty tinge, from personal experience. Makes it look really weathered and stained, almost, from dirt. I haven't touched any other washes yet, so I couldn't tell you if there's a better for it.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:25 No.5846127
         File1252869951.jpg-(18 KB, 416x353, 1234201957791.jpg)
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    You have no idea how sad that post made me.

    Please, if you want to use beginner techniques and defend them, at least have some concept of advanced painting as a whole, otherwise it just ends up in you looking like an idiot.

    Blending is how people who don't drybrush apply highlights. You use thin coats of wet color to blend different shades and tonal ranges into highlights and shadows.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:31 No.5846186
    to be honest, i to this day can't apply blending properly-i end up just doing layering rather than wet blend the colours...and no, i don't consider myself "drybrusher".
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)15:31 No.5846187
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    Devlan Mud is like sweet candy. I probably use it too much, but it's so delicious, that I don't care.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:32 No.5846197

    Friend of mine turned me onto it by saying it was 'magical make everything look better juice'. I don't know how true it is, but it's done beautiful things to my Cadians.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:33 No.5846212
    Really? I absolutely fucking hate the colour, i only ever use it when i have to wash the base, as the model inevitably ends up looking like it swam in shit
    but then again, i don't play orks either.
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)15:38 No.5846262
    Exactly. When I finish an ork and feel "you look great, little green friend.... too clean though" I slap that stuff on there and suddenly it feels like a right proppa ork. I'm slowly working on that chipped paint on metal look, haven't worked enough on my vehicles to use it alot though. Right now I only have it on my warboss's metal jaw.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:38 No.5846267

    Swam in shit is a pretty good euphemism for crawling through mud. Pretty fitting for Orks, who're filthy, and trench warfare troops. You could also just apply it where you want the shading rather than the whole model, if that's what you're doing. I imagine it would look bad on Marines.

    What army are you speaking of, anyway?
    >> Kitty-Moogle-Chan 09/13/09(Sun)15:39 No.5846277
    GW's washes are crude, coarse, but usually pretty effective. Use them for batch jobs, if you want something more exact make your own washes. I love them so much for doing troopers.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:41 No.5846295
    I'll remember that.

    Also, what I usually do for scratching up a model is I'll put a little paint on a toothpick and scratch it around on the surface. Either that or I'll drop some paint on it and move it around with the toothpick. Gives it a good worn look.

    Is there a better way?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:42 No.5846310
    Aye Vallejo Matt and Glaze mediums are wonderful!
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:42 No.5846311
    For someone who's interested in trying to paint a few models[but not playing wh40k] exactly what equipment should I get?
    Vallejo seems to be the guys for paints, other than that i'm stumped though.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:44 No.5846331
    >Pretty fitting for Orks, who're filthy, and trench warfare troops.

    As i said, if i were playing orks or similiar (skaven must look really good with it i imagine) i'd wash the everloving shit out of the RnF with it, but as it is i'd rather just apply correct colour washes on small areas. it helps i don't play a horde force,so i can actually do it and not get bogged down.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:45 No.5846345
    You can't really go wrong by sticking to any of the big manufacturers stuff. Go for whatever your local gaming store or model shop sells, be it Tamiya, Vallejo, Revell, Humbrol, P3, Coat d'Arms or whatever.

    For stuff like brushes, glue etc avoid GW, you're paying for the logo.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:46 No.5846355

    I mostly just do this for edges. I dip my brush all the way to the metal (YE GODS!) in the basecoat color (Boltgun Metal for me). Scrape as much off the tip as you can back into the pot (ALSO YE GODS!), then wipe the brush in paper towel until the tip is mostly clean. There should be a small quantity left in the bristles towards the metal. Touch that area to the edge in question and swipe it quickly along the surface away from the edge. Repeat as necessary in other areas.

    It's looked realistic so far on my minis, though I don't know how well it'll look if you start on a flat surface away from edges. It's also a bit wasteful on the paint.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:46 No.5846361
    for the scratched metal, paint the metal red/blue/yellow/whatever and then put down a line of black where you want the scratch. below the black apply a line of boltgun or mithril, then highlight the top of the line
    P3 or reaper are god-tier. Slightly more expensive. but ,massively nicer, and they have great color pallates.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:47 No.5846377

    Orks don't wash since that eats into their time killing and fighting and drinking and eating and other more orky things.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:49 No.5846396
    Not tamiya, please not that glossy ass-paint
    Good way to fuck up your brushes.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:49 No.5846399

    Yeah, I can imagine it looking kinda crap for anything other than a dirty horde army.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:50 No.5846411

    I keep a shit brush specifically for that and washes.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:50 No.5846412
    Alright, but what should I actually get?
    ie Paints, Brushes, Modeling knives and such?
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)15:52 No.5846430
    Wait, so you do a line of black and then another line of boltgun? And what do you mean by highlight?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:52 No.5846434
    I'm also wondering about what's needed for conversions.
    micro files?
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)15:54 No.5846450

    Whatever you can use comfortably. I use a freakin' box cutter to trim the flash and mold lines. Brushes from a hobby store should be fine. Paints...see further up in the thread. Also, I strongly recommend a good desk lamp so you can SEE. Bad lighting is terrifying to paint in.

    Biggest thing is that you can do good with bad materials. Just have patience and learn how to use them.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:54 No.5846457
    Well, paints(you might want to start with one of the "premade" sets availible-the GW one is okay-ish, P3 sets are too faction specific for a starting guy), snap-blade knife for mould line removal, maybe clippers for removing the models from sprues...brushes, don't bother with expensive ones, buy the cheap ones for now-you'll want 0,1,6 and flat 8 sizes probably. Glue-plastic cement and superglue of some sort. You're done for now. Oh, and a cup or two to clean the brush in,but any old coffe mug will do.
    One word of warning-DO NOT BUY THE MODDELING EQUIPMENT FROM GW! Go to your art store, or fucking Obi, just don't buy the GW stuff(well, apart from paints and washes)-it's the same stuff, but slapping a GW sticker rises the price by 100% or more.

    Also-i'd start with METAL models. It may seem counter-intuitve,as metals are a bit harder to put together, but you can easily dip the metal model in solvent and recycle it when you both the job, and plastic will melt in most substances.
    If you plan to shop online, take a look at companies other than GW for your minis-they are cheaper or better looking often,like Reaper(who has ginormous choice of models, you're sure to find something to your taste)
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:55 No.5846460
    Fine sand paper is good to finish off mold lines. Metal miniatures can be cleaned with a dremel steel brush.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:55 No.5846461
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    Fixed it for you OP.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:57 No.5846479
    Green Stuff Epoxy
    's fucking expensive though.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:57 No.5846481
    Paintbrushes in a couple of different sizes, knife, cutting board, tiny file, maybe some very fine finishing paper, acrylic thinners, spray undercoat.

    Stuff like cutting boards, files and abrasives can be bought from hardware stores cheaper than model stores.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)15:58 No.5846499
    that is the proper way to highlight, the OP pic was made to show a guy how to fix his drybrushed marine, not start from scratch.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:00 No.5846520
    You mean wetbrushed. If you get a shit result like that, your brush wasn't dry.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:01 No.5846531
    If you have the money, here's what you should get. Look at Vallejo model colors, P3, Reper paints. See if they have a "full range set" aka all the paints they make, buy it. But a bunch of brushes (5 or 6) different sizes, red sable, kolinsky sable are the best. You will also want a good paint thinner like future floor polish.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:02 No.5846552
    Wat if I want to buy warhammer 40k models and don't like painting them?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:03 No.5846556

    Which makes them awful if you want to control the thickness yourself.

    Buying thinner paint means you are paying for fucking water.

    I'd rather buy paint the consistency of a hockey puck and thin it down myself with acetone and water.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:03 No.5846562
    pay someone who does to do it for you.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:03 No.5846564
    What you do is find where you want the scratch and place a line of black, larger than the scratch you want. Then on top of that, layer a thin line of mettalic paint to represent the metal sticking out. Then on the side of the line of black that would face up, highlight the line (SUPER THIN LINES) the same way you would highlight the armor that is being scratched.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:04 No.5846572
    Every now and then you can get meters of the shit on sale, though. I picked up a few yards of the stuff at a local art shop once and it's lasted me for motherfucking years upon years.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:04 No.5846576

    If you have younger siblings, they make great slave labor. Have them do all the major work and just do touchups yourself.

    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:05 No.5846579
    You can play them but why wold you want to? People will give you dirty looks, even laugh at you. And the game's not even that great to be playing without liking all the other aspects of it.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:05 No.5846580
    Find someone who does? If you're willing to spend more cash, there are plenty of painting services on the web(i have no idea which ones are good though, you'd have to see for yourself). Or a local guy who will do it for cash(there's always one at the LGS)
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:05 No.5846586

    That's like buying movies just to have something to put under your TV.

    It's the models themselves and painting them that gives the satisfaction that makes them even remotely worth the price.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:06 No.5846589
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:06 No.5846590
    or even better
    local guy who will do it for the cost of the material.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:08 No.5846613
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    and on that subject is there any difference between this.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:08 No.5846621
         File1252872524.jpg-(97 KB, 1147x788, TL5007.jpg)
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    and this.
    expect the price?
    >> The Laziest Troll 09/13/09(Sun)16:10 No.5846653
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:10 No.5846658
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    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:12 No.5846678

    Funny how earnest discussion motivates oneself, isn't it?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:12 No.5846679

    None at all
    >> The Laziest Troll 09/13/09(Sun)16:13 No.5846689
    Any tips for making eyes non-googly? (And just painting faces in general.)
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:13 No.5846693
    hehe, good to know. (the former one was triple the second ones price)
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:14 No.5846701

    I do the white eyes then use a permanent marker instead of paint for the irises. A wee bit more control over it.

    Other than that, just be very careful and use a very fine brush, I guess.
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)16:18 No.5846741
    I got it easy since I have orks, but one time is if you have a droplet of paint on the tip of your tiny brush, it's too much. Dip your brush, one stroke on your palette will get the excess off, then one nice tap of red on those beady eyes.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:19 No.5846757
    this. Also, if the eyes are clearly sculpted(that is, the model has something more than just slight depressions in the face for eyes), you can try first painting the whites(use bleached bone rather than skull white,less striking difference from the skin tones), then ink the area around in black/flesh colour, and you'll have less googly whites. after that, what he wrote-use a thin marker to make the black dots.(or vertical lines)
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:19 No.5846759
    That looks fucking good. Thanks.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:23 No.5846799
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    How about the sunken in eyes of an astropath?
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:27 No.5846854

    There's eyes in there? I can't tell. Probably just black in the center, fading to the skin tone around the edges with highlights there.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:31 No.5846902
    Gah, all of this just seems like a huge pain in the ass to be honest.

    Is there any way to make all of this painting shit not either be supremely confusing or seem so over my head?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:31 No.5846905
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:33 No.5846930

    Prime. Do basecoat. Highlight raised areas that would catch light. Touch up basecoat. Add paint scrape. Wash.

    I think that covers most of it.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:34 No.5846937
    Paint scrape?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:35 No.5846947
    dry brush
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:35 No.5846948
    For primer on plastic do you just do a basecoat or do you use actual primer? If so, what color of primer should you use and can you just use a spray on primer that you would find at walmart?
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:35 No.5846950

    This >>5846658

    Scratches, sorry, not scrape.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:36 No.5846966
    Thanks much!
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:37 No.5846980

    For my Guardsmen, I use Chaos Black primer. The main thing about primer is that it needs to be matte - gloss doesn't hold paint over it worth mentioning. I've been experimenting with different off the shelf sprays to match some of my basecoats and save time, but the black adds inherent shadow to some recesses that's pretty useful.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:39 No.5847010
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:40 No.5847023

    That's obviously the condensed 'Idiots Guide' (no offense intended), just covering the bases. You'll have to try and grasp more of the thread to really do the best you can and do more of the detailed stuff.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:44 No.5847059

    >for the scratched metal, paint the metal red/blue/yellow/whatever and then put down a line of black where you want the scratch. below the black apply a line of boltgun or mithril, then highlight the top of the line

    Whatever you do, DON'T FUCKING DO THIS.

    It looks worse than any wearing effect ever, it literally looks like an ork came along and painted a black patch and then some metal over it.

    Take whatever paint you used for your base metal color (I do tin bitz and then drybrush boltgun metal, it's pretty much the only time I use drybrushing because it gives the metal a worn look very easily and naturally), paint a patch in areas that would wear down like corners or edges, the go back over and highlight it with your secondary metal color.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:46 No.5847076
    What /tg/ has taught me:

    If/When I get into Warhammer/miniature games in general...don't fucking paint them, because no paint is better than bad paint...

    yeah...I'll remember that.
    >> Trap 09/13/09(Sun)16:47 No.5847093
    you can always go for the 'stealth' army - all black primered minis
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:49 No.5847117
    Drybrushing is pretty great for doing hair and furs and certain kinds of cloth. I guess /tg/ only ever paints space marines though.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:51 No.5847137
    Okay, and as for actual painting, I take a little bit of the paint and put it on a plastic pallette. Then I thin it out to about milk-consistency with water and follow the guide posted earlier.

    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:56 No.5847201
         File1252875369.jpg-(15 KB, 320x240, Picture 009[1].jpg)
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    Here's my warboss. Again, sorry for the shitty resolution; my regular camera is on the fritz so I'm stuck with a webcam.

    Do you see any glaring problems? I think he looks pretty cool thus far.

    And I know he looks too clean; that's my next project.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:57 No.5847213

    Not the right question to be asking me - I'm not one of the PAINT YOUR THINS elitist folk, I drybrush a lot and don't thin my paints. My methods are hated and I still make it look good.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)16:57 No.5847217
    Dry brushing is never a good idea, even for cloth/hair/furs(space furries?)/ etc.

    If you want a quick paintjob, then drybrush. But don't try to justify it as 'good,' ever.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)16:58 No.5847232

    Highlights and a good wash would take care of what little I see that could be improved.

    Oh, and the 'chipped paint' look.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)16:58 No.5847239
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)17:00 No.5847258
    Now, how would I highlight something like boltgun or those shoulders?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:02 No.5847279
    >>(space furries?)
    Close, Beasts of Chaos. Also worked quite nicely on my Knights Panther and Knights of the White Wolf's furry mantles.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:02 No.5847280

    Usually a lighter metal color, or mixing the base color with what. Highlights on metal should really be considered nothing more than glare from a light source, keep that in mind.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:03 No.5847289

    with white*
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:03 No.5847290
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    See guys, drybrushing is the way to go!
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:03 No.5847294
    Just throwing in my opinion.

    Thinned paints is not mandatory for a good model.

    I don't thin my paints, I drybrush everything, I wash my models like a bitch.

    Yet I still paint my models to GW standard.

    And I dont mean the "3 colours, you can play" GW standard.

    I mean "Sitting in the rotating display case in the window of GW" standard.

    Thinned paints is a crutch and is incredibly over-rated at /tg/, Drybrushing also, can be used very effectivly.

    Inb4 "your a troll" just because the little fa/tg/uy paintfags think there is one way to paint and anyone who disagrees is a Double-Troll.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:04 No.5847308
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    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:05 No.5847319
    So if I'm not suppose to ever use drybrushing, then how the hell am I supposed to paint fur?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:06 No.5847331
    >thinned paints

    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:06 No.5847336

    In the course of this thread I think you've deprived yourself of the ability to rightfuly call someone a fag.

    Throughout, you've complained about people telling you your model was bad, demanded constructive criticism but when you received it you made it clear you had no fucking idea what any of it meant. You've been dicking around in the thread fishing for internet compliments while talking smack about things you don't know anything about.

    In short, shut the fuck up, tripfag.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:07 No.5847349
    apply three-stage highlight to every single strand of hair.
    No,really, if you're not painting it for GD competition there is literally nothing wrong with drybrushing rough-textured parts like fur.
    >> Col. Sanders 09/13/09(Sun)17:08 No.5847355
    One thing I've noticed about this guy.

    He shows up, and screams LOL NO DRYBRUSHING EVER.

    Now 80% of /tg/ has joined in screaming.

    Your a sheep /tg/, a CR 1/4 Sheep. Even a kobold is 1/3.
    >> Big Mek Vekter !OIqMj3oAUI 09/13/09(Sun)17:08 No.5847361
    Actually, I just don't like being giving unconstructive criticism. That means I prefer being told precisely what's wrong with my models as opposed to someone just saying SHIT SUCKS FAGGOT.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:10 No.5847380

    Clearly the problem is that you play Orks.

    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:10 No.5847383
    Until you post a real picture- no one can tell you anything about your model.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:11 No.5847390
    So you need to water the shit down first?
    Fuck, no one told me that. I guess that's how I keep running low on paint so easy...
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:11 No.5847392
    Because thinned paints is a piss easy way to try and get a semi-decent colour to somthing with no skill at all required, it's a Crutch for noobs who don't know how to paint, other than water down their paint until its piss thin and then do five or six coats of it.

    Then they sit back in the chair with a mediocre paint job thinking "Oh man I'm so amazing, I thinned my paints and everything."
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:12 No.5847401

    >I just don't like being giving unconstructive criticism. That means I prefer being told precisely what's wrong with my models

    That is precisely what someone did, and when it happened, you shrugged your shoulders because you didn't understand what the hell they were saying.

    Don't ask for something you have no use for.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:14 No.5847425
    show us some pics, then.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:14 No.5847426
    OK, I don't think you no what crutch means. Fact is, GW paints are too thick to apply straight to the model. Thinning them is not sufficient for painting well, but it sure as hell is necessary.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:15 No.5847446
    Not really, some people prefer to thin the paints down and some people don't, dispite what people say there isnt much difference as long as you know how to paint but thinned paints is easier for newbies though.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:16 No.5847459
    Is this why my brushes look like shit?
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:17 No.5847465
    >Because thinned paints is a piss easy way to try and get a semi-decent colour

    It is more than trying to get a decent color. Thinning your paint is required to mimic things appropriately when painting your models. Reflective surfaces, such as metals or glass, will never be done with inadequately thinned paint, for example.

    ITT: one person doing it right
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:18 No.5847475

    Brushes do wear down after a while even under the best of care. You might just be due for new ones.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:18 No.5847483
    >mentioning CR the most brokenyetworking system ever.
    >pointing out kobolds suck according to 3.5e
    fuck off troll.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:20 No.5847502
    >kobolds cr 1/3
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:31 No.5847603
         File1252877515.jpg-(62 KB, 1154x1439, camo.jpg)
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    Does anyone have any tips for painting camo effectively? Got a batch of scouts with camo cloaks to do.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:32 No.5847606
    protip, that wasn't achieved with drybrushing
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:32 No.5847613
    GW paints are too thick to apply to the model If you don't know how to use them, Different people have different tastes when it comes to painting, most people on /tg/ are under the illusion that thinned paints, an incredibly basic way to get a solid colour on, is the ONLY way to do it, and they depend on thinned paints in almost every aspect of their painting. I think thats pretty much a Crutch, but we may have different definitions.

    Heck, when painting an Imperial Fist Dreadnaught for the stores planetstrike release I had to thicken my paints just so I could use it how I liked.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:36 No.5847647

    Post some examples, because I'm seriously curious as to what your models end up looking like with your techniques.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:36 No.5847651
    Problem is a majority of this thread will think it was.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:42 No.5847693
         File1252878170.jpg-(99 KB, 600x1347, img49d34cfea4ed3.jpg)
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    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)17:43 No.5847702
    I hadn't even noticed when this happened, but yeah, I was certain a few weeks ago /tg/ didn't have a seething hate for drybrushing. Course, maybe that's cause some of /tg/ likes having a fully painted army, instead of a few extra nice show pieces. I will admit I've taken to highlighting more just cause it gives me more control and contrast, but sometimes I want the messy drybrushed look.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:44 No.5847707
         File1252878278.jpg-(75 KB, 600x888, img4814b455f28e3.jpg)
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    Not thinned
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:46 No.5847720

    I've found that the vaguely mottled look you get from dry brushing a lighter shade onto a dark foundation paint is pretty reminiscent of some camo patterns. I don't leave it that way, but I've considered it with a few pieces.
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)17:49 No.5847745

    I think I'm going to start playing statue wargames now!
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:50 No.5847759

    You can use your house's entire floorplan as terrain!
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)17:52 No.5847772
    You deploy in the backyard, I'll deploy in the front! The toilet and the washing machine are objectives!
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:53 No.5847775

    I call BS on that! My HWTs don't have LoS to ANYTHING.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:53 No.5847779
    No one actually plays wh40k. There's only painters.
    GW just had a lot of drab colors sitting around and decided to refluff the game to GRIMDARK to get that boring stuff sold.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)17:53 No.5847787
    They're both miniatures. They're both painted. Why did you post again?
    >> Stranger 09/13/09(Sun)17:55 No.5847802
    Well, if you got a prob with that, I got a problem with where your car is parked. I was going to park my Grand Am.... er, Battlewagon there.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)17:57 No.5847825

    No Fuck You, my VW Rabbit is proxying my Baneblade.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)18:03 No.5847864
    one of them is about 10 times larger than the other,. 1/15 scale and 1/112 scale.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)18:03 No.5847867
         File1252879417.jpg-(73 KB, 800x264, Terminator Squad front.jpg)
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    Not my latest models, but some Terminators done a while ago, Red isnt the best example since it was already pretty thin, but no paints were thinned in the making of these models.

    Don't have any other pics up this close so yeah, I have another pic of a Dreadnaught side on but its kind of bad compared to some of my other stuff.

    These guys I did Mech red, Red gore, a Drybrush of Blood Red all over, A second drybrush over general "raised" areas to catch the light, Went over with a sharp blood red/bleached bone highlight, light Baal red wash all over then a heavier wash towards recesses and the like.
    >> Kasrkin Mehlman, Cadian 336th 09/13/09(Sun)18:07 No.5847896

    Look fine 'n dandy t'me.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)18:10 No.5847927
         File1252879812.jpg-(2.46 MB, 617x3501, techmarine3.jpg)
    2.46 MB

    Larger is easier to paint but the scale of your paint job doesn't change for a good painter.
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)18:10 No.5847934
    close up please. Can't tell anything
    >> Anonymous 09/13/09(Sun)18:18 No.5847991
         File1252880286.jpg-(16 KB, 320x192, Terminators and Dreadnought.jpg)
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    If you read my post, this is about as close up as I have, I've only recently come out of Lurking and dont really visit any of the 40k forums so I don't have any pictures of most my models.

    Not close up I mean.

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